Sunsets here are drenched in burgundy plunging into the Atlantic.
At night you hear hyena, and in the morning find their tracks in the sand. This campsite perched at the edge of a cliff overlooking the hills, valleys and escarpments below.
Habitat encroachment is probably its biggest threat, followed by rabies outbreaks caused by the domestic dog.
Endemic to Ethiopia’s highlands it feeds almost entirely on rats.
He calls his friends over, and instead of one pair of eyes there are now eight, watching our every move. One quite quickly learns to ignore, and feign invisibility in Ethiopia.
In the morning when we wake a crowd of kids are already sitting under the tree staring, wide eyed, as we make coffee. I suppose for Hamid and his friends we are so alien, so comical, that we are like a live show or theatre.
After driving 25000 kilometer’s, across 11 countries, over seven months, we have camped in the good, bad, and the very ugly.
It is in the Simien mountains where you see the true Lion of Judah. Making their way across the cliff edges grunting, sighing, chattering, shrieking, moaning. You will remember a curve of your wagon track in grass of the plain, like the features of an old friend”.A brown mud river that carves its way underground through a maize of caves for about 2 kilometers.The rains have started rendering the water a chocolate colour, instead of turquoise, and we only make it part of the way into the cave system before the high river puts a stop to our spelunking.It has come to mean foreigner, but was originally a localization of “Frenchie”.Nowadays, kids and adults also call out “China China” regardless of whether you have slanted eyes or the rarest canid in the world, and is critically endangered.Head about 20 km’s down a sandy dried out river bed.Welwitschia’s bulge bloated from the dry river bed, and if you’re lucky you will see the odd springbok or duiker.Many other campsites along the way have become evanescent.You turn of the main road at the sign for Flamingo.Our guide Omar, speaks about three words of English, and his torch-lit wasted figure leads us through the darkness.His red, hollowed and sunken eyes from too much chat chewing and too little food glow in the dark making him look like Satan himself.